In many cases, it starts — believe it or not — in a forest plantation.

Not in an abstract sense, but quite literally. Wood grown in South African forest plantations is processed into dissolving wood pulp, exported, converted into fibre elsewhere and eventually made into fabric. By the time it reaches a store, that origin is no longer visible. It is simply a dress, a shirt, or something that feels soft and easy to wear.

For decades, the fashion industry has operated comfortably at that distance. Supply chains are long, complex and spread across geographies, allowing the focus to remain on trend, price and speed, often with limited visibility into what sits behind the final product.

That is beginning to change.

Part of the shift is being driven by a more informed understanding of input materials. Fibres such as viscose and lyocell are widely used because of how they perform — breathable, soft and versatile.

What is less widely understood is that these fibres are derived from wood. If a label says viscose, it started as a tree. This is an important distinction in a textile world still heavily shaped by fossil-based materials, particularly synthetics such as polyester, which are made from petrochemical inputs.

In South Africa, this process is supported by a well-established forestry and manufacturing base. Companies like Sappi produce dissolving wood pulp that feeds into global textile supply chains, linking local production to international fashion markets in ways that are not always immediately visible.

At the same time, expectations around how these supply chains operate are shifting. Consumers are asking more questions, sometimes out of curiosity, increasingly out of concern. Regulators, particularly in key export markets, are introducing stricter requirements around what brands can claim and how those claims are substantiated.

Broad statements about sustainability are no longer enough — there is a growing expectation that if something is described as responsibly sourced, there must be clear, verifiable evidence behind it.

This is where traceability becomes critical.

At its core, traceability is about being able to follow a material from its origin through to the final product. In practice, that means understanding how forest plantations are managed, how raw materials are sourced, and how they move through each stage of production. Certification frameworks play an important role, but their value depends on consistent, visible application.

It also brings greater clarity to an industry where terms such as, "sustainable" and "responsible" are often used loosely. When materials can be properly traced, differences between supply chains become more apparent and the gap between claim and reality is harder to ignore. This is one of the reasons why greenwashing has become a growing concern.

For producers at the start of the value chain, this shift is significant.

Products like Verve, a dissolving wood pulp derived from sustainably managed woodfibre, sit at the very beginning of this process. While it is not something a consumer will ever see directly, it plays a defining role in the fibres that eventually become fabric. As a wood-based input, it also helps explain why these materials are positioned as an alternative to fossil-based fibres in the broader textile conversation.

That starting point is becoming increasingly important.

Once pulp leaves the mill, it moves through a complex, multi-stage process. It is converted into fibre, spun into yarn, woven, dyed and finished across different markets before it becomes a garment. At each step, the original source becomes less visible.

The challenge now is to reconnect that origin to the end product.

One of the ways this is being addressed is through the development of digital product passports, particularly in Europe where they are being introduced as part of broader sustainability legislation.

In practical terms, a digital product passport is a data record that travels with a product. It captures key information about where materials come from, how they are processed, and how they move through the value chain. For textiles, this can include fibre origin, manufacturing inputs and environmental considerations.

The intention is not transparency for its own sake, but accountability. Brands selling into these markets will increasingly be required to demonstrate, not simply state, how their products are made.

This has implications well beyond retail.

It means that producers at the very start of the chain need to have the systems, data and processes in place to support this level of visibility. It also creates a more direct link between sourcing decisions and what ultimately reaches the consumer.

While the system is still evolving, it signals a clear direction for the industry.

At the same time, there is increasing focus on the quality and consistency of raw materials. Dissolving wood pulp must meet highly specific standards before it can be converted into fibre. That consistency carries through the value chain, influencing how fabrics perform, how they feel and how reliably they can be produced at scale.

South Africa plays a quiet but important role in this system. Through its forestry and manufacturing capabilities, it contributes to global textile supply chains that serve markets around the world. While this role is not always visible to consumers, it is deeply embedded in how the industry functions.

It also brings a broader dimension into the conversation. Forestry is closely linked to land use, water stewardship and community participation, with small growers forming part of the supply chain in ways that are often overlooked. In that sense, the discussion is not only about where fashion ends up, but also about the systems that make its raw materials possible.

None of this suggests that fashion is slowing down. It will not. Demand for clothing that is accessible, affordable and easy to wear will remain.

What is changing is the context around it.

There is greater scrutiny. More information. Less distance between where something begins and where it is sold.

Once that connection becomes visible, it is harder to ignore that every garment has a starting point, not in a store, but much earlier

For more information, visit www.sappi.com. You can also follow Sappi Verve on Facebook, LinkedIn, or on X.

*Image courtesy of contributor